Latvijas Republika: Rīga

In 1931 a ‘Freedom Monument’ was erected in the centre of Riga in celebration of Latvian independence. During daylight hours a ceremonial two-man guard of honour protects it. As it turned out Latvian independence could probably have done with something a little more substantial. Since the 1930’s Latvia has been invaded three times, occupied for over sixty years by a foreign power and been subject to genocides and blunt demographic engineering on a horrific scale.

So it would be fair to say that the twentieth century has not been kind to Riga. Yet in 1999 something of a new hope emerged with the election of the Canadian educated Vaira Vīķe-Freiberg as President. Since then Latvia has not looked back. In 2004 its 2.4 million inhabitants joined the European Union while its armed forces inflated the ranks of NATO. Wages and house prices have since shot up and many have taken the opportunity to earn small fortunes in western Europe – usually sending the proceeds back home. Clever micro-economic policies have sustained the flow in foreign investment and low taxes have spurred on growth. Things have never been so good.

Essential in all this success has been the near constant stream of weekend tourists. Mostly boozed up, arrogant and cash flash Brits who revel in 80p cigarettes, £1.50 Vodka bottles and some of the best looking women in Europe.

So two weeks ago, not wanting to miss out on such decadence, I hoped on a carbon oozing flying machine with some friends to partake in this weekend long migration. And we were not disappointed. We were however, perhaps unfortunately, stereotypically British at every turn. English and Irish bars dominated our stay while at night the clubs teemed with fellow Brits, all of whom were simply awe struck at the calibre of the local girls. Only later did we realise the club was operating a somewhat disturbing ‘face screening’ policy. No uglies please – unless you’re a westerner with cash to burn. While the morals of pretty young Latvian girls flirting outrageously with drunk Brits solely on the size of their GDP are best left untouched, I will say one thing for it: This club would only take about five minutes to turn even the most ardent Eurosceptic into a devotee of Brussels. Perhaps also best left untouched is the all to evident scale of the sex industry. But hey, even pimps have children don’t they? Children that need their education paid for somehow. The future of a nation has been built on far more exploitative grounds than this. The rapid construction of flats and coffee houses throughout the city is evidence of more than just an influx of rich foreigners. Latvia itself is developing its own culture of middle class and pretentious professionals. Hurah!

The skyline of Riga testifies to its changing fortunes. It is an eclectic mix of 19th century Art Nouveau architecture (apparently), Soviet era concrete blocks and EU era skyscrapers and hotels. A quick bus tour takes you from glittering affluence right through to old workers communes that look like something out of war torn Bosnia. Although all districts are linked together by an excellent tram system, a small benefit of Soviet occupation.

Another peculiar phenomena on display has to be the rise of the globe trotting, working class Brit. Cheap flights and a visa free Euro zone have gifted the average Britain a stunning opportunity to sample the delights of Europe at his or her leisure. This is no bad thing, it is far better having them mingling around the streets of Dublin, Madrid and Prague than it is to have them cooped up in their local pubs exchanging racist jokes and marrying one anothers cousins.

While admittedly not everyone going for the weekend will become budding Europhiles - fluent in nine languages and avid readers of Estonian newspapers – the point is that it is now at least possible, whereas ten years ago it was not. And even those that take little but a hangover from the experience will now be able to react differently to migrants back home. Instead of falling into a xenophobic frenzy when they realise their new colleague is from Poland they will instead simply enquire if they are acquainted with the ‘Bongo’ club in downtown Warsaw. Inter-European exchanges, even if propelled by the promise of cheap beer and cheap women are no bad thing.

Globalisation (or regionalisation in this case) has a habit of making all countries richer while simultaneously increasing the wealth divides within them. This can be seen in Latvia. So if the latte drinking classes of Britain, and increasingly Latvia, are to survive the next fifty years then what is required are sensible social policies to pick up those left behind. Stability can be bought. In order to do so Latvia will require yet more tourists receipts. And this is where we, with our over drafts, come in.

Who ever said saving the world couldn’t be fun?